Su-17M4 1:48

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   Model Specifications
Type: Su-17M4
   Scale: 1:48
Manufacturer: KP, Czech republic
Date: 11.07.2009
   Author: Romain Flechon


First, lets do a quick review of the kit.
I built the KP (KoPro) kit. Its a rough one! The cockpit is very poor in details, the seat is very basic, the wheel bays are blank and the undercarriages need some detailing
Meanwhile, the panel lines are recessed and at their right place, and the shapes are good. I found that the aggressive look of the Fitter is well reproduced.
My boxing was from 1996 and gives two markings: a Czech one and a Russian with sharkmouth.
The decals are printed by Propagteam and include a lot of stencils. They are well printed.
The instructions are not very clear, but with precaution the build process is not so difficult.

I started with the cockpit. The walls and panels are poor in details I throw them up and used Su-27 front and side panels from etched parts. The seat is from Verlinden.
The wall behind it received some scratched details with soldering and copper wire.

I added resin parts from Flanker to enhance the exhaust.
I painted it with Humbrol metalcote. It needs to be polished after drying to get metal aspect.
I then added some drybrushes with green, cream, brown

The bays are quite empty. So I added some details with wires.

The main bay, after quick detailing, painting and weathering:

I used Humbrol 65 blue as basis, with some grey in it. The wash is black with rusty pigments.

Now we can glue the fuselage halves together. This step requires just a little bit of putty, the fit is pretty good! But some panel lines dont get face to face. I had to fill and rescribe them.

The surface is a bit rough, so I sanded it with P600 sandpaper with water, then I polished the fuselage parts with copper polish on a piece of tissue.

The tail fits good

As for the wings, it preferable to cut the alignment blocks on it it will ease the wing fit. Wings parts:

I drilled the scoops:


I just added some wiring, referring to photos. For the main gears, you will have to pay attention to the articulation. You have to get the right angle, otherwise, the plane could to close or to high from the ground.

I used Humbrol 65 with grey, again.
The doors are very inaccurate. On the real plane, we have pits
I juts added some rivets line. That part is not very visible on the finished model.
After paintjob :

I added simple details in airbrakes housings. For more accuracy, they needs to be deepen.
What I didnt do

As for the pylons, you have to do some work here.
In fact you will have to cut them at the right angle to make them fit on the wing edge.
Some sanding/fitting is required to get a good result.

I added some details in here:

Flat front glass is tainted with green ink from a ball-point pen diluted in alcohol.

Scratched antennas:


I choose to put fuel tanks, Kh25 and R60. I added copper wire to depict welding lines, and winglets are cut and made of thinner plastic sheet.

I picked up the R60 from an academy flanker kit. And I detailed them with the Eduard missiles sheet.

The Kh25 received just a plastic strip on the underside, stencils are from different kits.

Here comes the painting job!

Black preshading:

Underside: I used a mix of Humbrol :65, 127,48

I fill the panels one by one in order to keep the preshading effect. The in lighten my colour and fill little panels, hatches and create some spots:

I sprayed sand mix free hand:

Then I lighten the panels:

Then I masked the sand with adhesive gum (Blutack, Patafix) and masking tape.
And I sprayed the medium green, a mix of 149, 76, 101
Same process: filling, lightening

Result just after demasking:

I found that result quite weird. The colours didnt match each others.
So I sprayed a diluted layer of light brown with gloss varnish:

Result is more uniform. The colours go more together.

Then I painted the metal parts with Humbrol MetalCote 27003


I put the decals with Microsol and alcohol for the harder ones.
Then I sealed them with a sprayed coat of Future/Klir (Gloss varnish)


I did a wash of humbrol black with just a little rusty pigments in it.
I fill the panel lines, let it dry 10 minutes, then I wipe the excess with a cotton swab dipped in thinner (white spirit), in the airflow direction, and vertical directions. Two passes at least are needed.

Then I put some brown, rusty and yellow traces with oil paints. I stretch them with a brush next.

To complete the model, I spray a matt varnish coat with some grey/sand thinned in.
It has for result to get the painted in effect for the decals



Romain Flechon 2009